Day 91 – 99
24th July to 2nd August
Seville Cadiz Madrid
It would be hard to live in Seville even though it is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. It is hot, the streets are wide and even though tree-lined and full of parks and plazas it is still hot. Walking around being a tourist during the heat of the day must be very amusing for the locals as everything except the cafes are shut. All the sane Sevillians are having a Siesta in air- conditioned comfort, or at the very least under a tree.
Apparently, any Flamenco dance exhibition that includes a meal is a tourist trap. Asking around we discovered a hole in the wall type place where the drinks were cheap, the food was served kiosk style on paper plates and the seating – wooden benches and tables. The show started at 10pm and involved 3 people: the female dancer, the male singer and the male guitarist. The male starts with a horrendous howl that seems standard in flamenco. The dirge is dramatic and the dancer, moved by his song, stands up to give the most amazing, passionate performance. This is the raw flamenco that would have been found in the taverns of the past. Her angst was channeled through the dance and you wouldn’t want to cross her as her face contorted into something quite grotesque as the dance continued. It was so skillful and passionate with its feet and clapping patterns.
Filled with enthusiam for the dance, visited the Flamenco Museum. 10 Euros for the only flamenco museum in Europe! It had not been updated since the 1970’s and the film clips proved it. What was interesting, was, a famous Flamenco dancer said that you don’t have to understand the story if the dance moves you. Very true.
A walking tour around the city showed us the Catedral y Giralda with its history showcased via its transitional architecture from Islam to Christianity.
The Real Alcazar, magnificent spot in the middle of the city that housed the palaces over the centuries and the wonderful gardens.
The Plaza Espana. This is an interesting tale. These buildings were built for a 1929 world exhibition to showcase Spain in all its glory. This ambitious idea was to release Spain from its financial doldrums by showing the world how wonderful and innovative Spain was. No one came! The timing couldn’t have been worse for the Spanish as the Great depression kicked in at the same time. It was a disaster. The buildings went to rack and ruin until 50 years later when it was all renovated. Now each of the beautiful buildings are utilised. At first sight, it would appear you were in Las Vegas except these buildings are real and the area is magnificent.
Again, our walking tour guide, gave us advice regarding great, cheap places to eat and it was Tapas again. Dos de Mayo. 2nd of May, a very special day. It was a bit away from the tourist area in Plaza de la Gadivia. Scrumptious food, sangria and a bill of 18 Euros.
There is also an iconic old store that sells Orange Wine. It is like sherry and famous in Seville.
Bullfighting. What do we think of bullfighting? It is embedded in the Spanish culture along with the Flamenco. Is it man against beast or bloody torture for a helpless animal that ends up with his head stuffed and put up on a pillar in a restaurant? What still determines this culture? Souvenir shops sell bulls with smiling faces and posters promoting the heroic act of the matadors.
The food markets are wonderful and the Mercado d Triana is a great example of tradition. The stall holders don’t just have a number but instead their names are spelt out in the classic tiles above their stand.
Cadiz
An hour and a half by bus to Cadiz and a return trip costs 23 Euros. A fun day and out of the dry heat of Seville. Cadiz is a port town and is very old. There was a market in the square where the artisans were only allowed to sell hand-made work. It was a nice change from all the African stuff that is flooding into the south of Europe. Why would you want a souvenir elephant from Spain?
The beaches here are very similar to Australian beaches like Manly or Surfers. The only difference being a bloody big Cathedral at one end. The Atlantic Ocean was warm, the sand was white and the waves were perfect.
Travelling by bus is a lot cheaper than train. The 6 1/2 hour bus ride from Seville to Madrid was 22 Euros It takes a bit longer but the train is almost 3 times the price.
Spain is olive trees and it looks like planting is on the increase as there are hectares of young trees in the fields. Did you know there are specific olives for wine and beer? A specific type for every occasion!
Seville was hot but Madrid feels hotter, partially because it is not on a large river and the boulevards and squares have no cover. It is difficult to walk around in the intense dry heat but with perseverance embarked on another “free” walking tour. His name was Will and he was a Pom. Immediate thought was, “ Is this his Summer job? He was extremely knowledgeable and passionate about Madrids political and social history. Another great walking tour, this time with OGO tours.
Madrid has the oldest restaurant in the World (1725), old meaning continuous use. Restaurante Sobrino de Botin, it is in the Guinness book of records and has a menu signed by Charles Dickens and was Ernest Hemingways favourite spot. Impressed!
There is a place called Museo del Jamon which means ham museum. You can buy a beer for .90 Euro cents and get a little plate of different ham and salami for free. Historically, tapas was always free. Its translation means “lid” as drinkers used to put bread over the beer to stop dirt, flies or bugs getting into their drink. Another story is that the king was fed up with having drunk workers so he insisted that the taverns serve food with the drink for free to line the workers stomachs.
It is quite a treat to get olives and nuts or meat when you order a beer. Makes you feel special.
The coat of arms for Madrid is a bear and a Madrona tree. There is a lovely liquor called, funnily enough, Licor Madrono. It is made from the berries of this tree and served in chocolate cups. The older people drink this after dinner as a digestive for good health and, apparently it works as Spain has one of the highest life spans. It must work because the bread, fried food, fatty meats and huge number of smokers should kill off any other race.
Well the last full day in Madrid was eventful. The morning and into the afternoon at the Theissen Museum. This place is equal to MOMA in New York for its Gauguin, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Munch etc. .A wonderful place.
Next to another Museo del Jamon for another .90Euro beer and free tapas. The ham here is the best in the world or maybe just the best we have ever tasted.
Then, sighted a beautiful facade of a restaurant, took a photo of it with a lady smoking a cigarette outside. It looked intriguing. She told us it had delicious food so we booked our tickets to Carmen and went back there for magnificent garlic prawns that was a dish shared. The manager of Fatigas del Querer, Pepe was a red headed Spaniard and was delightful.
Carmen the ballet and flamenco at the Teatro Apolo was a highlight of our trip to Madrid.
We have had an awesome time in Spain. From the Camino de Santiago in Galicia to Barcelona with its Gaudi and the mountains of Montserrat. To Malaga and its beaches, beautiful Seville, the port of Cadiz and artistic Madrid. Spain has been extremely good to us and will be missed and remembered fondly.
Two Travelling Bags 