Dublin to London by overnight bus – 12 hours in London – London to Paris on overnight bus. Arrived at the bus station at the unfavourable time of 6.30am and our accommodation at 7. Check in? 2.30pm. Dropped bags and walked and walked around a very quiet Paris.
Wandering around in the mist of the morning is magical even if it was blurred from lack of sleep.
The love for this city has been celebrated in print throughout history. Does it deserve it? Yes, it probably does. It is the epitome of style and culture. From the very well dressed men and women walking down the street with their stylish caps and scarves tied jauntily around their necks, worn in a way that only the French can, to the women of the night that stand in the doorways of the closed shops with an aire of self importance as they chat to the passers by. So Irma la Douce.
An Australian in Paris
Paris is not just the Eiffel tower or the Arc de Triuph. It is the streets behind the streets that make this city so interesting. This time the only iconic building we visited was Sacre Couer with the magnificent view of the tower. Besides all the tourist places, it is lovely to spend the time meandering, people watching, whether it be the tourists or the Parisienne life. The French certainly hold the trophy for panache and that has never changed.
Unfortunately, scamming is rife and probably more concentrated in Paris than in any other city during our travels. Trick is to look French!
A visit to The Pere-Lachaise Graveyard is a must see. It is a beautiful space full of hauntingly magnificent colours as the leaves change for Autumn they are illuminated by the grey background.
Edith Piaf
Oscar Wilde
Jim Morrison
Chopin
Everywhere is a grave of someone awesome, Modigliani, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf and even Jim Morrison – some huge and some surprisingly understated.
Montmartre is lovely although the paintings and souvenirs do not reflect this areas history. It would be hard to find something unique here. The aura still carries through from the past but the repetition masks it a bit.
Flea markets are great and showcase the culture of a place. Used clothing, bags and shoes tell stories of the times past and are great fun to roam through.
Paris is expensive and always has been. It couldn’t be any different as it is expected and could possibly be disappointing if it cheapened its disposition.
Relatives and friends
Ah the pastries!
Why not?
In saying that, Reims is ridiculously expensive and exudes an arrogance that it doesn’t really deserve. It has changed since the Appellation Controlee made it exclusive. It was a ghost town this October but the tastings were still by appointment, at least 20 Euros and no choice to not go through the caves. See one and then buy a bottle of a small makers label (still expensive) and have a picnic in the park.
An escapee from the Carousel
worst beer ever
Mum and son at Mumm
Reims Cathedral
Our accommodation was on the Rue de Saint-Denis. A wonderful eclectic street full of bars, restaurants, peep shows and street walkers. The bar below is attended by a very flamboyant barman in a kilt and was abuzz every night, the sounds of the street being great entertainment.
Room with a view
Room with a view two
Rue de St Denis
And so, to the end of this amazing journey.
A realisation from this experience is that everywhere, people are amazing. It is sad that the politics of a country influences the potential traveller to the detriment of the countries’ people. Ignorance and ill-informed prejudices teint the travellers options. Of course there are incidents and not everyone is friendly but overall human nature is glorious.
As for the people we met along the way, you know who you are. These will be friendships that will last for the rest of our lives.
“Never forget that time passes so quickly you don’t even notice it until it begins to show. So, use the good china, go on the trip, eat the cake, watch the late movie, read your favorite book and take a chance in life”.
A stopover in Abu Dhabi and then these two travelling bags return to their respective homes and families and set in moton a plan for the next trip of a lifetime.
The thing is, anyone that wants to be a travelling bag, can be. We travelled on a budget and had amazing experiences. The budget was $100AU a day. The figures are being computed and the results will be published.
Did we travel ourselves young? We have the Youth Hostel membership to prove it!
It was great sharing our adventure with you and please feel free to ask any questions..
Its great to be in London. So much change in a relatively short time but still a great feel about it. It was just a day so we visited our old haunts and the landmarks. Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly, Queensway, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Regent Street, Oxford Street. All the icons that make London. Funny how directions come back to you.
Hyde Park
Marble Arch
tribute
the eye
Australia House
The Palace
Dorking. Where is Dorking?? Dorking is a market town in Surrey, around 33 kilometres from London.
What a wonderful village this is, made even better by two good friends that live there.
The chicks are home
Dorking Cathedral
Our accommodation was The Waltons on Rose Hill, a backdrop to the green where sheep grazed without a care in the world. Misty mornings and sunny days. Couldn’t be better. Started to feel a bit like the carefree sheep.
Sunday roast lunch at the Red House is the best. The plate was full of delicousness including Yorkshire Pudding but wait there’s more! Plates of vegetables came out as well. After lunch and a few more drinks the chef, who is the publican, shared oysters with us that were brought back from France by one of his staffs family. What a treat! The owners of this pub are hands on and so friendly.
Sunday Lunch
Post Sunday lunch
The culture in a small town revolves around the pub and it is not just to drink. It is a shame that these small friendly pubs are not very common in Australia.
A day trip to Guildford, another beautiful market town.
So, back to the pubs and one cannot leave Dorking without visiting at least most of them. The White Heart, The Bulls Head, The Old House, The Star and then there are the many charity shops full of goodies.
The Old House pub looked like any other but had a secret wardrobe leading into the most spectacular Harry Potteresque library. No, it wasn’t the drink.
Just a wardrobe
A secret door
Voila!
Ireland and Northern Ireland
First impressions of Dublin came from our taxi driver from the airport. A very charming man who immediately engaged us in conversation throwing the F bomb in-between every 2nd word. No malice or aggression intended. It was hysterical. We also found this to be very common everywhere. Doesn’t sound bad with an Irish accent.
Ireland from the air
There is a shop here called Penneys where the clothes are warm, cheap and quite stylish. A wardrobe change from the warm climates we are used to. Bit of a shock to wear covered in shoes.
A tour is started. Now this tour was a last minute idea to see as much of Ireland and Northern Ireland as we could in 9 days. Our options were limited so it was not a tour that we would normally choose but positivity is powerful.
The average age was about 70 and was made up mostly of Americans and Canadians. In a bus that holds 45 people, socialising is peripheral as it is all too hard. A late afternoon orientation drive through statue-lined O’Connell Street and elegant Georgian squares to St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Trinity College.
Home of Guinness
Trinity College
Off to Belfast! Passed Drogheda, scene of the Battle of the Boyne in 1690, then through the fertile, green landscape of the Boyne Valley. The border into Northern Ireland is very subtle. Past the Mountains of Mourne to Downpatrick, the burial place of Patrick, Ireland’s Patron Saint, and then Belfast, where the Titanic was built. Visited the Titanic Exhibition which won best tourist attraction in the world in 2016. At night four of us were let into the back door of a “full house” Harp Bar by the bouncer. Dancing, great music and crazy Irish. They sure know how to have fun to be sure.
the very spot
grand staircase
6.45am bags out! 7am Breakfast! 8am On the bus! Boom boom boom. Off to The Giants Causeway.
This is a story about a giant called Finn. Finn McCool actually – already sounds like a superstar.
Finn is getting a little fed up with a giant in Scotland called Benandonner who insists on taunting him with aggressive threats. Finn loses his McCool and picks up massive rocks and throws them into the ocean so he can step his way across and give Benandonner what for! “ I’ll bust your dial. Do yaw want a knuckle supper? Come here and fight ya ferkin eedjit!” etc etc.
This plan was not thought through well and the next minute Benanndonner comes running across the stones and Finn gets a look at him. “Oh Feck the man is massive”! Fin runs into his house and hides while his wife greets Benandonner and welcomes him into her home.
Benandonner was pretty impressed with this show of hospitality and while he was sipping his tea, he hears a baby crying in the corner. Finns wife excuses herself to deal with the crying child. Benandonner has one look at the child and takes off at a run. Why? Finns quick thinking wife had disguised Finn as a baby and Benandonner took one look at the infant and figured if the baby was that big the father must be huge. He ran back to Scotland, ripping up the stones and never bothered Finn again. Of course that is what happened, none of this science rubbish.
Finns Boot
If the chimneys are smokin, Finn is home
Finns organ?
He turned is old mother to stone for interfering
Derry or Londonderry. Driving past the Londonderry signs you often see the London crossed out. A passive up yours! This city is one of the best walled cities left.
A strange relationship still exists in Northern Ireland even though things have calmed down on the surface.
There is a lot to see as we travel around this little Island. Drumcliff has the grave of William Butler Yeats and his monument is surprisingly small.
Off to Knock to visit a village that has attracted pilgrims from all over the world since the townsfolk saw apparitions. An apparition is very good for the economy of a town. The shops are filled with all kinds of religion paraphernalia.
Galway is a nice seaside town with lots going on but it was the Cliffs of Moher that was the winner on the day. Strong, freezing winds almost knock you over and the water sprays up high over the clifftops. A very rugged and beautiful coastline.
The nights entertainment was a medieval banquet in a real castle. Why do we do this to ourselves? It might as well have been in a warehouse in Melbourne. Oh well, you live and learn.
Skirted around the city of Limerick to a little village called Adare. This village is well known for its prize-winning thatched cottages.
Travelled the Ring of Kerry for a 100- mile coastal view of rain and fog. Irelands weather is so fickle. One side of the bus can have sunshine and the other has rain pelting on the windows. The sun finally showed up at the end and we were able to see what this areas reputation was all about. On to Killarney where the “Killarney lakes so blue” are. This is where you can jaunt into the national park.
A jaunting cart
means telephone box in Gaelic
Blarney castle and of course, kissing the blarney stone. Not what was expected lying upside down with your head in a hole but one must do what must do in the name of eloquence!
Blarney Castle
Is this a joke?
Avoca woolen mill
Famine Cottages
Waterford
Enniscorthy, site of the final battle of the Great Rebellion of 1798; Wicklow Mountains; and Glendalough with its ruins of a centre of Irish Christianity, founded by St. Kevin.
Back in Dublin and the Auld Dubliner Pub where the music was booming at 2.30 in the afternoon. Gotta love the Irish. A couple of Jamieson cocktails at the distillery and off to the docks for a ferry to Holyhead.
The Auld Dubliner
who says there are no leprechauns in Ireland?
Halfpenny Bridge
The entire island of Ireland was fantastic and the people, so friendly. A good time was had to be sure.
Totally underestimated this wonderful city. It is so quiet in the tourist areas making it very comfortable to visit but not too good for the Country.
From our hotel Glamour rooftop
R2D2
Attaturk
Some of the most beautiful buildings in Istanbul were designed by Sinan a famous Ottoman Architect. “”I saw the monuments; the great ancient remains. From every ruin I learned, from every building I absorbed something.” He produced over 200 buildings in his lifetime.
A love story: Sinan was in love with the Sultans daughter, Mihrimah. Her name meant Sun and Moon. It is said that Sinan built two mosques dedicated to her. One in the East and one in the West so at the Spring equinox the sun would set behind one minaret and the moon rise between two on the other side. Simultaneously! Very romantic. How true the story is will never be known but everyone loves a good legend.
Visited the Hagia Sophia Museum which was closed but lovely to look at. The Blue Mosque or Sultan Ahmet Mosque is named for the blue tiles inside the building. It was great to be allowed inside as we were with the Suleymaniye Mosque. This Mosque is even more beautiful due it finer, less ornate interior.
The crew minus two
The Grand Bazaar and spice market. Perfect. Just like the books you read as a kid. Colours, copper, hundreds of mosaic lamps, rugs, spices, brass, coffee. Everything! A feast for the eyes.
Tasted the biggest and most mouth watering figs ever. The food here is so scrumptious; Pide, Mussels stuffed with rice from the fish sandwich vendors along the river, Turkish delight. Nuts. Our Intrepid Travel tour group consists of 1 Aussie man, 11 Aussie girls and 2 Canadians. A great mix.
Gallipoli
We grew up with the stories of the ANZAC but to be at Anzac Cove where these young men came ashore to be slaughtered, you truly understand the bravery of the men and boys, some being as young as 14. It is humbling to be there amongst the hundreds of memorials for the men that died fighting for their country.
The Turkish are so gracious and respectful of the whole area and welcome the new generations of Australians and New Zealanders with open arms. A mutual respect is present without being flaunted.
“You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries, wipe away your tears. Your sons are lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land , they have become our sons as well”. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.
Big bugger
A returned Turkish solldier
The ferry goes to Canakkale which is the Asian side by of Turkey. A country that spans both Europe and Asia. The Trojan horse stands near the port (this is the one used in the movie). Stuffed Mussels are sold per piece from vendors dotted along the foreshore.
Selcuk by bus took around 7 hours and the scenery is surprisingly similar to the Australian bush. Ephesus and the Greco – Roman ruins, gods and goddesses. Enough to make your head spin.
Hermes
Geoff and Janice
One story of the many… Zeus was a bit of a womaniser and fell in love with a woman called Io. Hera, his wife, was not happy about this and was vengeful. To protect his girlfriend, Zeus turned Io into a heifer. Clearly he did not think this through. Hera was very suspicious of the random appearance of a beautiful white cow and sent it away to be guarded by a 100 eyed creature who was able to watch over it 24/7. Zeus then sent Hermes to kill the creature who he lulled to sleep with his lovely music before doing the deed. The 100 eyes were taken and set into the tail of a bird and voila! A peacock!
What happened to Io? She either turned back into a beautiful princess or sirloin steak.
The old school public toilets at Ephesus were a communal affair, quite the meeting place. To avoid embarrassment the loos were set around a pool full of frogs. It was always the frogs!
Selcuk is a lovely town but unfortunately tourism is down. The President and Prime Minister were in town to open a new train line and so were 5000 Police Officers. It appears that the Governments ideology is not helping tourism which is sad as Turkish people on the whole are kind, generous and have a great sense of humour. Australians are especially welcomed here.
A crystal mined in this area is called disphore also named Zultinite (by the U.S Company that mines it). It changes colour from amber to pink to emerald green when exposed to different lights. A very popular purchase.
There is a very competitive breed of rooster in Pamukkale. One starts the crowing and the next minute there is another. They compete with eachother until one passes out. Sort of like a roosters drinking game.
Cleopatras Pool
Apart from the roosters, Pumukkale (Cotton Castle) is known for its calcium cliff like structures and the hot springs that feed through the calcium bi carbonate to form warm pools. Cleopatra’s personal pool was on top of the plateau and is surrounded by beautiful plants and, of course, shops, restaurants and baths. The cost to swim in her pool was 30 turkish lira. It is supposed to cure a multitude of ailments with its minerals.
The best looking tradie ever
Sunset, wine and Suleman
Alicia, Wendy and Val
Sunset
Discovered the joys of real homemade Turkish ice cream. It is like toffee and is scooped up with a long stick. Delicious. Apparently, the texture is due to Mastica, the sap from a tree that is used in both Turkey and Greece.
Ruins of rock tombs are dotted through the hillsides of Fethiye. Visited an umbrella roofed shopping street and the famous blue lagoon where a sunbed and an umbrella is 15 TL and worth it. The beach is very pebbly and beautifully white as though it has been landscaped that way. The water is a vibrant blue. Mojitos on the rooftop bar with our mates for the sunset and to watch the paragliders come swooping in for a landing.
Boat trip from Ucagiz What an experience! The boat was comfortable and the food was prepared by the Captain and her husband. Amongst the feast was cauliflower with garlic yoghurt sauce. Need to get the recipe for this one.
Imagine jumping of a boat into water that is very deep but so clear that you can see the bottom. Pockets of very warm and very cold-water surprise you. The water is indescribable so the suggestion would be to come to Turkey.
Moored at Kalekoy Island that was topped by a fortress. Halfway up is an ice creamery called “I am here”. The lemon and mint ice-cream was the best ever and the host and his wife were constantly filling our cups with a myriad of different flavours so that we wouldn’t miss out on anything.
Dinner was amazing and we all slept under the stars after some of the girls had an Uno play off.
Antalya is a very pretty coastal town catering for the German and Russian tourists. The pension Razer was comfortable with beautiful gardens and a little bar and restaurant. Our hosts offered us their personal home pool but the beach was too enticing. A private beach close by was 30 Turkish Lira for the most wonderful experience. Deck chairs on a large pallet over the water with service and the water lapping underneath you. Very clever use of space.
Noticed a spa treatment that included a face mask, body exfoliation and massage for 25 Euros. What a deal. Only problem was that on enquiring, the masseuse/owner walked out with nothing but a towel wrapped around his waist. Couldn’t tell if he was sweaty or wet. Instead, we bought a jar of Clay mask for $5 and the entire group had a facial for free. Much better deal and a lot more fun sitting on the verandah with mud covered faces and a drink or two.
masks
masks
and masts
The bazaar in Antalya was a Roman Bath house and the ceiling, vaulted and stunning. Restaurants here have pools inside and if you eat there you can swim. A bit voyeuristic to have a silver service meal and have someone splashing around in a bikini.
Hadrian’s Gate is in Antalya and there is also a lot of the original wall.
The broken minaret stands behind the ruins of a place of prayer. First, it was a temple, then a church, then a mosque, then a church and then a mosque again. Finally, it was destroyed by an earthquake. Makes you wonder if God said, “if you can’t share no one can have it” and BOOM!
Turkish delight comes in all flavours. Originally called Osmanlica, meaning comfortable although you are not too comfortable after eating too much of it. It has been within the borders of the Ottoman Empire since the 15th century. A British traveller name it Turkish Delight.
Konya is a a 7 hour road trip cross over the Tores Mountains, a very devout area and the birthplace of the Whirling Dervish, a faith from the 13th century lead by a man called Mevlana ( Rumi). The hats symbolise tombstones, the black cloak is the ego (which they discard before the whirling begins), the white attire means purity. A red sheep skin symbolises the sunrise of the day that Mevlana died. It is said, that the whirling started when Mevlana heard a jeweller banging on an anvil. It was a sign and the beat motivated Mevlana to whirl around and eventually enter into a trance like state. Mevlana’s followers copied him and the whirling dervish was born.
A whirling mobile
Mevlanas resting place
Cappadocia (land of beautiful horses) is one of those places that you have to experience first hand. Nothing you see or read can describe the immensity and solid beauty of the landscape. There are manmade pigeon holes in the incredible formations as their guano was an industry at one time. Our hotel was in one of the many rock caves. A balloon ride over the landscape is affordable and a highlight. Pictures tell the story. It is customary to decorate the basket with flowers on landing and of course a toast to the end of a safe trip.
the deck
room in a cave
clay pot cookin
bars open
our hotel
keeeping it clean
It was on the way to Darende that we visited incredible rock formations. This area is very arid and these structures just appear. The 3 graces, the Camel and the Fairy Castles. Gokpinar is abeautiful lake that is the most incredible blue, again in the middle of nowhere.
Cemberlitas Village is in Adiyaman and is agricultural: grapes, tobacco and wheat. Stayed with a lovely family here and slept under a thousand stars again. Could get used to it.
bloody big cabbag
pottery lesson
drying tobacco
chasing the tractor
On the way to Mount Nemrut we walked across a 2nd century AD Roman bridge. The bridge originally had 4 columns representing the family but, boys will be boys and the oldest brother (Emperor Caracalla} killed his younger brother (Geta) and destroyed the 4th Column that represented him. The standard script for a Roman soap opera.
Trudged up Mount Nemrut and to our surprise it was like Easter Island with the heads and bodies of all the famous gods. They were all there including King Antiochus (who thought he was one). Commagene, Zeus, Apollo and Herakles. These statues are replicated on the East and West side.
A tour of Turkey ended with a flight back to Istanbul, a quick sprint around the Grand Bazaar and a street food walk on the other side of the city.
The Euphrates
Baklava
Sheesha
Mosque at night
Turkey is a magnificent country and there is nothing to fear here. Even walking at night is fine. The Turkish people are very friendly and welcome tourists openly. It is such a shame that past problems have maimed its’ tourist industry as it has so much to offer. Our little group was led by Suleyman Erkose, a fantastic guy first and tour guide second. He was so well read and attentive to all our quirks. As for the group? They were fantastic and the laughter flowed constantly. We had a ball.
During the 30 year war, Croatian soldiers serving in France, wore brightly coloured scarves around their necks. Made quite an impact so, Louis XIV, being a stylish fellow, copied the look and voila! The humble necktie was born.
Showing of their beautiful kravatas
Zagreb – Dubrovnic – Elaphite Islands – Split – Brac – Zagreb
Zagreb
From the taxi driver, to our host and a place to eat, everyone was incredibly friendly and the feel of the city was so uplifting. The accommodation was fabulous for $45 ( for 3 of us) a night and our host was terrific. No wonder IKEA is so big. Almost all our accommodation throughout Europe has been decked out with 100% IKEA.
Paw rooms Zagreb
$45 a night between 3
Market Woman
Dolac Market Mural
3rd from the bottom
proud Croations
Zagreb Cathedral – tallest building in Croatia
There is a heart shaped sweet or biscuit called Licitar, meaning little heart. It is the symbol of Zagreb and is given as a show of affection and often used as a Christmas tree decoration. Some of the wooden hearts have little mirrors in the middle so the receiver can look into the heart of the loved one. Another version is to look into the face of the person that loves you the most. Both stories work.
Another soldier on another horse in Ban Jelacic Square. This statue originally faced north to show defence against the Austria Hungary invaders. It was removed in communist times but now, it faces South to add a better balance to the Squares’ aesthetics.
Turned to the South to stop him intimidating the people in the yellow flats
Said goodbye to our overnight bag, Libby and took off to Zaton (Dubrovnik).
Zagreb to Zaton. A good bus will get you there in comfort for A$45 and 8 hours. Zaton is 15 minutes out of Dubrovnik and about 50% cheaper. The accommodation was 10 metres from the deliciously green- blue water of the Adriatic. These days were filled with swimming, having adventures and drinking beer with two very lovely ladies from the UK. Again opting for peace rather than the tourist trample in Dubrovnik.
Beer o’clock
Accommodation, restaurant and bar all in one place!
Fliss and Chips
Teo – waiter with the mosto!
just want to take this colour home
the beach?
Dubrovniks old town is lovely but it is disappointing to see every available space filled with expensive cafes and bars, catering to the masses of tourists wanting to soak in the Game of Thrones atmosphere.
Great place for a basketball court
The old fort
Good use of space
View from the basketball court
The surrounds of the castle are used by the locals and tourists for sunbathing and diving. Again, the water is lovely, the beaches are pebbles and sea urchins pop up and get you if don’t wear reef shoes or thongs.
A “fish picnic” and cruise around the Elaphite Islands consisted of 3 Islands and all the grappa and wine you want. Hence, our musical singalong on the way home and the beautiful voice of Pauline.
Sunset at Bol
Back of the bus
and another
Dubrovnik to Split
The ferry takes 4 hours and about $15. Our UK friends decided to join our adventure which made it a laugh a minute. The island of Brac by ferry, another swim and another beer or two and an unfortunate but delicious farewell dinner in Split. We have met some really wonderful people in our travels and these guys are what it’s all about.
Split, on the Dalmation Coast was a huge surprise. There is still an abundance of touristy shops and markets but there is a lovely feel to the place. It has an old world charm showcased by it fortress, Palace and Cathedral. Ruins everywhere and all, a beautiful white stone.
Zagreb, Zaton back to Zagreb. Used up so many zzzz’s, cant sleep!
The town square has a statue of France Preseren, a writer and poet, famous now but not so much when he was alive. He was in love with a wealthy merchants’ daughter so naturally it could not be. After the couple died, the towns folk erected a statue of their now famous author and a smaller one of the girl who just happened to be called Juliet, facing him from her house across the square so he could look longingly at her for eternity.
It is known throughout Europe and beyond that rubbing a statues particular parts gives you luck. It appears that Slovenians needs a lot of luck.
Faces by Jakov Brdar
More bloody faces
Ljubljana is a picturesque town with a relatively small population. An artistic hub with fantastic sculptures both old and new.
The only place in Ljubljana that was empty was the area that houses all the museums, perhaps because the art is on the streets. Otherwise it is a thriving place filled with history, cafes and beautiful bridges. Not to forget the kranjska sausage that Slovenia and Croatia take the credit for. Always thought it was the Polish Kransky.
Rotten locks
There is always a dragon
Lake Bled
Grizzly name, gorgeous place.
The church stands high up on the little island in the middle of the lake. Ninety nine steps gets you there.
The Church on the Island
Val carried herself up
It is tradition that if the groom can carry his bride up the 99 steps before his legs give way, then ring the bell and make a wish inside the church, his marriage will be a long and fruitful one. Sounds exhausting before the marriage even begins!
There is a castle on the mainland that is 11th century and the lake looks like you can scoop up the colour of it in your hands. In the Winter, the mountains and island are covered in snow and it becomes a very popular and expensive ski resort.
Little row boats called Pietna take you around the lake. No motorised craft to ruin the ambiance!
One travelling bag and a backpack!
Vintgar Gorge was another lovely stop which wasn’t on the agenda but our fantastic driver took us there as a treat.
The trip back from Lake Bled to Zagreb took about 2 ½ hours including the border stop.
Slovenians are very proud of their Prosciutto as it is cured by the wind called Bora that carries the salt in from the sea giving it a unique flavour and then………they put it on chocolate along with figs and a bay leaf thrown in.
St Stevens Basilica houses the hand of St Steven, the first King of Hungary. It also houses the body of Puskas Ferenc, the best Hungarian soccer player ever known. It is said that St Stevens hosts the best of the two most famous Hungarians, the Kings fist and Ferenc’s left foot.
St Steven
Ferenc Puskas
Probably not the best impression of Budapest after an eight-hour overnight bus from Krakow to be dumped at a bus station in the middle of nowhere at 5am. It does skew things a bit.
Positive outlook tested further with luxurious accommodation. A tiny room that just fitted 2 skinny single beds with no luggage space. The sheets were grey and threadbare and our spare bit of floor felt like a sandpit. $20 a night each. Oh well, a little bit extra money to go exploring.
mmmm?
ask about this shocking news
sad
the old bus station is now a bar
regular street sign
whats Ronald doing here?
Budapest. Well, the buildings are beautiful and the Danube flows between Buda and Pest making up the city but, it is filthy. Cigarette butts and broken glass everywhere. By catering to the younger crowd with the bars and nightclubs, it lacks the infrastructure or perhaps city pride to clean up the carnage in the parks and gardens caused by the illegal public drinking which is not enforced.
There is a nightclub under this pool. Where are the gardeners?
The Chain Bridge
Libby and a bloody long escalator
ungaurded fireworks on the bridge
Palinka is the drink of the Hungarians and can be up to 70% proof on the black market. It looks like metho and tastes disgusting due to its lack of taste but there are Palinka bars everywhere and we were told by the locals that the best stuff is only 50 percent proof as there is still some slight resemblance to its fruit origins.
The Szechenyi Baths are fun. Three main outdoor pools and about 12 inside the beautiful buildings circa 1913. It was packed and the pools were warm. Yes….. thinking the same thing. The inside thermal pools are cold and hot with all kinds of torture to partake in. It is a very popular place. Rumour has it that there is a beer bar where you can sit in beer while drinking beer. Food is served but denial is a very strong motivation.
A well-deserved night cruise down the Danube due to the accommodation savings. The welcoming drink was the metho followed by 4 courses: duck rillette, smoked trout and a pork thing that were all fried, set with lard and squeezed out of an icing bag onto a piece of fried bread. Traditional Goulash soup was a winner. Taste of Hungary plate- don’t even go there and a dessert called Somloi galuska. 90 minutes, A$65 and a few photos of the nightscape. Bargain?
The Hungarian plate
piped lard
Val & Libby
washing down dinner
Classic image
The Shoes on the Danube is a memorial to the Budapest Jews who were shot by militiamen between 1944 and 1945. The victims were forced to remove their shoes at gunpoint and face their executioner before they were shot without mercy, falling over the edge to be washed away by the freezing waters. It is such a powerful work.
Because we stayed just outside the city centre, we have seen the beautiful and the ugly Budapest and unfortunately it is hard to let the bad things go.
Handsome Hassars
On a positive note Paprika is the Hungarian spice and there are many types, hot, sweet and smoked. Delicious! Picked up 3 Hungarian men. All solid, with good professions that dont answer back!
It is said that a dragon was causing a bit of fuss in the area that is now known as Krakow. The only way to placate the dragon was to feed him virgins. Quickly the virgins disappeared through sacrifice or self-preservation. The King decreed that if there was a man out there who could slay the dragon he would be given the princess as his reward. Suddenly all the men in the area were busy… except for Krak, a skinny little guy with a plan. He killed a sheep and stuffed it full of very hot spices. He laid the sheep in front of the Dragons den. In the morning, the dragon awoke to find his breakfast waiting for him. He ate the sheep and suffered so badly from the spices he bounded down to the river to drink and drink until he had drunk so much he exploded. Little Krak married the princess and lived happily ever after in the new city of Krakow.
The dragon of Wawel
Entering the old city is like walking back in time. The park that surrounds it was once a moat. There is a small bit of wall left that was the defence. The town is orderly in its design, and the roads all lead to the square. Unlike other cities, it is difficult to get lost in Krakow.
The Barbican
Krakow is comfortable tourism. The streets are busy but not manic. There is enough room for everyone and the centre square houses markets, restaurants, entertainment and street food. Ah the street food. Pierogi – dumplings, fried smoked cheese, sauerkraut. Tourism is on the increase though and it will be a shame if it gets to overflowing like Prague or Florence.
pierogi
chocolate covered fruits
very tall people in Poland
The Old Square
Grilled Oscypek Polish Traditional Smoked Cheese
More cheese!
and more cheese!
If you look at this carefully, you will see that its chocolate!
We are here for a wedding. An Australian young man, Will and a Polish girl, Iwona. The Marmalade restaurant in Krakow was the venue of the meeting of the guests. Potato pancakes with stew and fried cabbage. Delicious. The wine is expensive here but the beer is cheap. After dinner? Vodka shots. All kinds of flavours, ginger and cloves, berries, milk based. 1 Euro each! A$1.65. Funnily enough…no hangover.
Princess Iwona and her Prince William….and Piotr – the best man
The wedding was held in the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral, famous for its acoustics and the 12 Apostles standly proudly out the front. Iwona, the beautiful bride looked like a princess and Will, her dragon slayer (because slaying the Polish language is a very brave and complicated feat). It is said that if you are not from a Slavic country it usually takes about 13 years to speak Polish fluently. From the church to a lovely venue on the outskirts of the city. The Australian guests could not believe the abundance of magnificent food and the Polish guests didn’t know what hit them with a quarter of the guests being Australian. Not to forget the token Aussie male guest who jumped into the pond and had a lovely visit to Krakow hospital. You know who you are.
1 of 100 desserts
the menu of two dinners
The Church
More desserts!
Auschwitz – Birkenau
work makes you free?
This was a sombre day. Auschwitz is 1 ½ hours from Krakow. There are two ways of looking at a visit to a concentration/death camp. Education is empowering and the realisation of what people went through is certainly a powerful message to future generations, if they choose to listen but it is also a sickening voyeuristic look at something so horrific that you feel ill with sadness and disgust in the cruelty of the human race.
The old town draws you in every day just to absorb the ambience.
Opera?
Florist
MacDonalds even sells Prozak!
A mixed bag of architectural styles
Subtle advertising
The Palace
There is so much tradition in this town. A bugler plays a tune in 4 directions from the highest point in the old town every hour – every day. The tune stops abruptly to respect the bugler who was struck in the neck by an arrow while trying to warn the town of a Mongul Invasion in the 13th century!
St Marys Bascilica
The bugler
The drainage channels on the roof of the Cathedral have dragon’s heads on the ends so that the sacred water that collects on the roof can be channelled through a dragons mouth and made available to the public to drink.
A visit to the Schindler Enamel factory turned out to be a holocaust museum with very little about the man himself. Strange really.
The Ghetto Streets
Houses in the Old Ghetto
Krakow is a georgeous city and so far the winner in the most beautiful city visited in the last 4 months. Sorry Lisbon.
Two travelling bags picked up another bag in Krakow and we are off to Budapest!!!
If the beer is more expensive than the water, the place is a tourist trap!
Prague starts with P and P stands for people. Waves upon waves of people walking down the streets. It was uncomfortably crowded with tourists and tour guides holding up umbrellas with the hordes following like sheep. Russian, German, Americans students and so many Japanese.
Proof!
Huge groups standing in front of all the beautiful buildings and each one having a photo shoot. So, althought the historic buildings were in abundance, it was so difficult to see much which is a real shame. The lack of great photos reflects the density of the crowd. The architecture is stunning with its many styles and the river flows calmly beside the chaos of the streets.
another photo shoot
Took the Funicular Railway to Petrin hill, a lovely green area of parks, walkways and ponds and …away from the madding crowd!
However, Praha is lovely. It is emerging out of its communism cacoon and reinventing itself.
To remember the damage of Communism
Maybe a bit older
Franz Kafka made famous in Prague by the tourists
The Lennon Wall
Tourism would have to be 90 percent of its income as the city is filled with restaurants and bars in every nook and cranny.
K
Kafkas home is a cafe
makeshift cafe next to a church
anywhere is a cafe
The Astronomical clock in the old square was voted the 2nd most disappointing tourist attraction in Europe, the Mona Lisa being the winner. Hundreds of people gather in front of the clock to watch the magic happen but the best view is to watch their faces as disappointment starts to show. That said, it is a very clever clock and does some nifty things. Apparently, the clock maker was blinded and his tongue was cut out so he couldn’t build one for anyone else. So, he threw himself into the mechanism from the tower and buggered it up. It took over 100 years to repair as no one knew how to fix it.
The Prague Concert Hall has the greatest composers in the world standing on the roof, around 30 of them. When the Nazis took Prague, Reinhard Heydrich who fancied himself as a violinist, chose this building for his headquarters so he could have his own stage. He sent word to his underlings to get rid of Mendelsohn from the roof as he was a Jew. The soldiers, not knowing which statue was Mendelsohn, chose the statue with the biggest nose. It was Mozart! Hitler’s favourite composer. They took to Mozart with hammers and chucked him off the roof. Who knows what happened to the soldiers.
All the streets in Prague are cobblestones, so high heels don’t work that well but people still insist as the fashion here is to walk on stilts.
A street vacuum cleaner that sucks up the cigarette butts from out of the cracks
The food is delicious but very heavy. Syr smazeny is a dish of fried edam served with tartare sauce often with chips as well. It is not just one massive wedge of Edam, it is two! A meal of pure calories with a bit of cholesterol and heart disease thrown in. Another favourite is Trdelník a chimney shaped cake filled with chocolate, custard, caramel, ice-cream and cream. These stalls are everywhere. Our first meal? Shared pork knuckle with grated horseradish and mustard.
Syr smazeny
Trdelník
pork knuckle
Accommodation in Prague was in the University, a tram trip away from the city centre. The trams are excellent. The building looked a bit like a Sanatorium being very stark but it was great. Inside each dorm was a kitchenette, a bathroom and three lockable bedrooms. The rooms were very large, light and airy as they house the students in term. Not bad accommodation at all for $20 each a night.
University Accommodation
Rebels for great Kransky
Found a little place called Rebels across the road that served kransky and beer for around $5. Not wanting to say goodbye to a good Kransky we ordered two to takeaway for our 8-hour bus trip to Krakow. The young bloke packaged them up in boxes complete with bread, horseradish and mustard. All we need now is another beer and we are all set for Poland.
Joined a walking tour with an Australian woman, studying acting, as our guide. Quite bizarre except that we have found, in some cases, the aliens are more interested in the history of a place than the residents.
Old East Berlin as you would imagine it to be
Alexanderplatz is the city’s hub and is a vibrant space a lot going on: bands, food stands including pretzels and bratwurst. The favourite of the Berliners is Bratwurst curry: diced sausage served on a plate with tomato sauce, curry powder and a toothpick. Interesting, but the original is much better.
The place to be
Berliner wurst
alcohol in the platz ist nicht verboten!
Berlin is built on a swamp so buildings are not too tall and any excavations have pipes erected to pump the water out. The landscape is full of blue pipes rising up and over the roads.
The World Clock
The TV tower was in East Berlin and their tallest building. It transmitted 1 television station and even though the East Berliners could pick up Western TV shows, it was a criminal offence to have your TV tuned this way. Teachers would ask children questions regarding Western TV shows to find out if their parents were tuned into West Berlin. Can’t get lost in Berlin because you can always see the tower.
the tv tower
seen from anywhere
old and new
Berlins highest cross
Marienkirche is the oldest church in Berlin and copped a bit of damage as did the Berlin Cathedral. Martin Luther stands proudly nearby.
Marienkirche
Martin Luther
Marienkirche
Shrapnel damage is still evident on the walls of these buildings although a lot of the structure and façade has been repaired. The park in front of the Dom is so well utilised with bands, picnics and gatherings.
Berlin Cathedral
Checkpoint Charlie was not what we expected. The Brandenberg Gate is awesome in its history and stature. It was great being there. Not much of the wall is left but the souvenir shops are still selling pieces of concrete with a splash of paint on them. Hitlers bunker is a carpark but you can go to a museum that is a mock up of what it would have been like. No thanks.
Brandenburg Tor
Checkpoint Charlie for tourists
The Bebelplatz is the site of one of the infamous Nazi bookburnings where so many original books by famous authors were lost forever. A memorial is set beneath the ground showing a room of empty bookcases through a perspex window.
The underground library of empty bookshelves
There are bookstalls outside the university and small subtle brass plaques set in the footpath with the names of the scholars who were sent to concentration camps and died there. Potsdamer Platz hosts a history walk explaining the war and the wall.
A very movig tribute
part of the wall
east and west
the dividing line
part of the death zone
The pieces of wall are covered in chewing gum to the point where they look quite artistic – from a distance.
monument
Jackson Pollack?
There is a car that is well known here called a Trabi. In East Berlin, if you wanted to buy a car you could have your choice as long as it was a Trabi and it would take 12 months to deliver. They are now rented out to tourists.
Trabi 1
Trabi 2 for rent
A double paved line outlines the walls boundary. So much wall is available for sale. At Checkpoint Charlie it is sold by the gram authenticated by a certificate. You can also buy a piece attached to a postcard for 2 Euros. Need a forensic guy for these purchases.
the boundary wall
Really?
2 Euros for a piece of hstory?
Holocaust Memorial
An amazing space
Unter den Linden
Hitlers perfect man
Museum
Museum
blankets for outdoor dining
why do they get rid of the old adverts first?
Berlin is a bit like Melbourne. Sunny in the morning and torrential rain and cold in the afternoon. It still lives and breathes what went on over 70 years ago, probably because tourism drives it that way. It is a city of food, drink and alternative lifestyles as historically it always has been. Anything goes here.
Two flea markets, a schnitzel, a beer and we are done!
Two Travelling Bags 