CAMINO PORTUGUESE – 7 days
Baiona to Santiago de Compostela
Day 35-43
Baiona to Vigo
Whoever invented walking poles with anti-shock was a genius.
Flew into Viga and took 3 buses to get to Baiona, only to walk the 30 plus kilometres back to Viga the next day as the Camino rules state, to be a true pilgrim and receive your passport to heaven, you must walk over 100 kilometres.
What had we signed up for? We had expected a casual stroll down country lanes but instead went up, up, up rather large hills and down, down, down steep slopes. Gravel, pavements, bitumen, dirt, rainforests, vineyards, desert. Oh the list goes on!
We dragged our weary bodies into Vigo at 7.30pm after ten and a half hours of hard slog. Found a lovely place to eat. Never too tired to find a yummy place to eat.
Thing is with the Camino, you have to look after your feet. Poor things get a workout.
Vigo to Redondela
This was supposed to be a short day but no… 22 kilometres. 9am to 4.30. 22 kilometres sounds like nothing but the Camino route takes you off the main roads and around the winding paths through vineyards and small hamlets. It is a great way to see the countryside as long as your’e not looking at where you are placing your feet, as you often are.
Redondela is a beautiful town. It is like walking into a fairy-tale. There are squares leading into more squares and all have either churches, fountains, statues or cafes. The architecture is fantastic and the city has not ruined the façades with advertising.
Dinner by the river. The entrée was pine nut soup. Different. Looks like rizzoni pasta. Hate to find out the calorie count.
While walking, we noticed many small structures. They are called horreo and are found in the Galicia area. Mostly built in stone but some have wooden slats; very ornate and kept off the ground by pillars. They are used as a granary and are up high to keep rodents from the grain. Most houses have them.
Everything is closed from 2.30 -6.30 and the sun does not set until after 10pm.
You tend to meet the same people over the days. Lots of Germans, Dutch, French and Spanish. Haven’t seen another Australian yet and the Europeans are surprised we have come from so far away to do the walk.
Eucalyptus trees are everywhere but are apparently are a pest and not well accepted at all in the Galicean area.
Redondela to Pontevedra
24 kilometres and made it in 8 hours. A Camino record for us.
The rivers and creeks running through the towns and farmlands are pristine. There is no rubbish, you can drink the water and there are many ancient drinking fountains dotted along the way.
Grabbed some bananas and they tasted like banana custard. Tastes are exaggerated when you are tired and hungry.
Pontevedra to Padron
Record time! We are getting very good at this walking caper. Twenty two kilometers in 6 hours! Is that good?
Padron to Teo
Left our accommodation facing the Padron railway station at 9am and walked a mere 13.5 kilomeres to Teo as we decided to split our last day into 2 days. It was so worth it. Our accommodation is outstanding A beautiful 150 year old stone building with the best shower so far.
Teo to Santiago de Compostela
The city’s Cathedral was our destination and we finally finished the remaining 14 kilometres. As we trudged into the Praza do Obradoira with its Cathedral that houses the remains of St James, we were confronted with bloody scaffolding! The entire cathedral is covered in scaffolding! No Romanesque structure, no Gothic and Baroque elements. Instead, scaffolding and a sheet of material over the lot which is a pretend picture of what it looks like. There were pilgrims lying in the square looking up. Was it exhaustion or a massive “why now?”. Who knows.
When we lined up for our certificates and contemplated what we had gained and the reason for the journey, it would have to be that you are never too old to push yourself because if you don’t, you will never know that you can and what a waste that would be.
Two Travelling Bags 